Wandering Serbia
I didn’t plan much before flying into Serbia. Just wanted to go somewhere a little under the radar, affordable, and full of life. Belgrade popped up on my radar and it didn’t disappoint. Loud, bold, with moments of total calm in between the chaos. Then there’s Novi Sad, which felt like someone pressed the volume down button in the best possible way.
Belgrade: Stayed at Lumiere Hotel, Would 100% Do It Again
Belgrade can feel a bit full-on when you first arrive. All that traffic, the layers of history, the buzz! So finding a hotel that feels like a soft landing is gold. For me, that place was Lumière Hotel, right on Terazije Street in the center.
Apparently, this is the exact spot where the first ever film screening in Serbia happened back in 1896, which is a cool bit of trivia… not that I thought about it while passed out in one of the comfiest beds I’ve had in ages.
My room was great. Not over the top, just smartly done - clean, comfy, no weird smells, no clunky furniture pretending to be “stylish.” The space felt balanced, not too cramped, not echo-y either. I had a balcony facing the city, which was a nice touch. Also, the smart room tech actually worked, which was a pleasant surprise. Usually, those things are all hype and no function. Breakfast is on the 9th floor, and the view alone is reason enough to show up. You’ve got a spread of warm dishes, fresh bits, fruit, bread, solid coffee… nothing crazy but everything good. I ended up lingering longer than I meant to, just watching the rooftops and easing into the day. Same floor has the rooftop bar too, they host events up there sometimes, but I stayed on the 5th floor and didn’t hear a thing. Soundproofing: 10/10.
They’ve also got a spa setup with a pool and sauna included. I didn’t try it myself, but I popped my head in and it looked modern and chill. If I’d stayed longer, I probably would’ve booked a session.
The staff really nailed it. Big shoutout to Anjelina at reception. She was genuinely helpful and had this effortless warmth, like someone who actually enjoys their job. No fake smiles, no stiffness. If something had gone sideways during my stay, I got the feeling she’d sort it quickly and kindly. Only real downside? Shower pressure was a bit weak. Not awful, just... underwhelming. But that’s me being picky. The rest of the stay made up for it easily.
One thing to note: they don’t have private parking, which is pretty common in the city center. If you’re driving, the best option is Obilićev Venac garage, just a short walk away - maybe three or four minutes. It’s around €1.30 per hour or you can grab a daily pass for about €17, which is worth it if you’re planning to park longer than half a day.
Overall, Hotel Lumière really delivered. It doesn’t scream luxury, but it’s stylish, calm, well-located, and designed with actual comfort in mind. Whether you’re in Belgrade for work or just wandering solo like I was, it makes a great base and those beds, seriously, they deserve a mention twice.
Quick Stop: National Museum of Serbia
I ended up at the National Museum of Serbia on a weekday afternoon, kind of by accident. I was walking through Republic Square, didn’t feel like sitting at another café, and the museum just called to me. You know when you're in the mood for something slow and grounding? That.
First thing to know: the entrance isn’t the one facing the square, which I learned after trying to walk through a locked door like a dope. It’s around the side. And bring some cash, by the way - when I went, the card machine was down, and it was cash only. Not a huge deal, just worth knowing.
The place wasn’t busy at all. Maybe five or six people total inside. Which was perfect. I like museums best when they’re quiet. Gives you space to breathe and not feel like you’re in someone’s way every time you stop to stare at something for too long. The ground floor starts with prehistoric stuff: bones, tools, bits of pottery from the first people who lived in this region. It’s not flashy, but there’s something oddly humbling about seeing how far we’ve come. You walk past the Roman stuff, then some Byzantine coins, and you start to realize just how many layers this part of the world has. First floor shifts into medieval Serbia, lots about the Nemanjić dynasty, and some beautiful religious art. I lingered by the icon collection longer than I expected. Not even for religious reasons. There’s just something about those gold leaf halos and expressive eyes that hits different when you see them in person. Then there’s the second floor, which is mostly paintings from the 14th to 20th century. You get a good mix - European masters, Serbian artists, even some modern stuff that makes you tilt your head and go, “Hmm.” I actually liked that they showcased regional painters too. It gives the museum a sense of place instead of just being a collection of big names. And some of the work is seriously moving. What I appreciated most is how they laid it out. It’s not overwhelming. You’re not bombarded with plaques or stuck trying to read ten paragraphs every time you stop. Just enough context to get the idea, without making it feel like school. The staff were older, calm, helpful in a gentle way. No pushiness, no bored glares, just kind people happy to see someone genuinely interested.
Then Slowed It Down in Novi Sad: Hotel Pupin
After Belgrade, Novi Sad felt like a reset. Quieter streets, easier pace. I checked into Hotel Pupin, which doesn’t look like a hotel from the outside. It’s inside a mixed-use building, and check-in is done through a security desk not a typical setup, but I ended up chatting with the guard, Dragan. Great guy. Super helpful, spoke several languages, and was just genuinely kind. Felt more personal than most reception desks. The room was great clean, modern, had everything I needed. Some people online mentioned noise, but I asked for a room facing inward and had no issues. No lobby means no fuss. You just go straight to your room and relax.
I wasn’t exactly dressed for fine dining when I walked into Kalem, just the usual travel gear: sneakers, plain tee, probably a bit sun-worn. But the staff couldn’t have cared less. They welcomed me in like I belonged there, which honestly set the tone for the whole evening. The vibe in there is pretty refined, you’ve got that clean, modern, almost elegant design but it never felt stiff or pretentious. It’s that rare kind of spot that looks upscale but still feels relaxed. No one’s judging your outfit or rushing your meal.
I had this waiter, Mladen, who was just excellent. Super attentive, knew the menu inside out, and had that perfect balance of being helpful without hovering. Like, the kind of service where you actually want to leave a good tip. He made sure everything landed perfectly, and even helped with some custom requests from a couple sitting nearby. Pro move.
Now the food was really impressive. I wasn’t dining with a group this time, but I overheard people at the next table mention they had one vegan, one person doing the Orthodox Christmas fast, and someone with no dietary limits. Somehow, all three were raving about their meals. That tells you something about the range and the kitchen's ability to adapt without compromising flavor.
I went for a seafood dish and it was spot-on. Fresh, well-seasoned, and plated without any unnecessary fuss. Everything just tasted real. You know when a place tries too hard to be "creative" and forgets to make it actually good? Kalem’s not like that. Just thoughtful cooking done well.
Honestly, everything about this place hit the mark, the setting, the energy, the food, the people. If you’re in Novi Sad, don’t miss it. Even if you're solo, even if you’re underdressed, even if you’re just looking for a quiet, unassuming night with great food that really tastes amazing. Would 100% go again.
