My Unfiltered Guide to Split, Zadar, and Zagreb

I didn’t go to Croatia with a big plan. Just me, a backpack, and a loose idea to check out a few cities, eat some good food, and see what happens. Turns out, Croatia is kind of perfect for that. Whether it was rooftop views in Split, seafood under the stars in Zadar, or Zagreb’s old-meets-new charm, each stop had something cool and unexpected. If you’re a solo traveler looking for a mix of laid-back city life and stunning coastline, read on; this trip might be exactly what you need.

Split: Nice Room, Big Bed, and a Lot of People Fighting for Pool Chairs

Hotel Ambassador

First stop was Split. I stayed at Hotel Ambassador which had a great location right on the water, about 10 minutes from the ferry port. The room was actually better than I expectedmodern, clean, and the balcony was massive. The sliding doors opened up almost completely so it felt like the room spilled out onto the sea. Bed was huge, probably the biggest I’ve ever slept in. They also leave you complimentary water which I appreciated.

Now... the rooftop pool. It looks great in photos, and it really does have an amazing view of the marina. But it's packed. Think loud groups, day drinking, and barely any chairs available. I waited around 10 minutes to get a spot in the shade, which I only got because someone left. If you’re going for a quiet chill by the pool, you won’t find it here.

Also, a tip don’t ask the front desk for restaurant advice. I asked for something local and low-key and they kept suggesting expensive fine dining spots. Ended up ignoring them and just walked until I found a small local place. Much better. I got the sense that they’re more used to celebrity guests than solo guys asking for iced coffee and cheap eats. Fair enough.

Zadar: Best Hotel Vibe and a Hidden Seafood Gem

Art Hotel Kalelarga

Zadar kind of caught me off guard. It’s smaller than Split, yeah, but there’s this calm, laid-back rhythm to the place that I really liked. No big crowds, no rush. Just sea breeze, stone streets, and the occasional sound of church bells. I stayed at Art Hotel Kalelarga, which is right in the heart of the old town, on Zadar’s main street, Kalelarga. You’re basically sleeping in the middle of everything.

The hotel only has ten rooms, and it feels more like a hidden spot than a typical hotel. You walk in and it’s quiet, design-forward without being pretentious. Stone walls, local artwork, soft lighting. The whole place kind of flows, like it was built to match the street it sits on. My room felt like part apartment, part gallery. Super clean, really comfortable, and with just the right amount of personality. You can tell someone took their time designing it.

The staff were lovely. Not that overly rehearsed hotel nice. Just genuinely warm. They remembered my name, helped me find a good place to write for a bit, and gave solid local tips that weren’t the usual tourist-trap stuff.

Breakfast was downstairs at their café, and it actually surprised me. Not a sad buffet with cold eggs. They made things fresh, to order. The eggs were probably the best I had on that trip. Coffee was good too, which always matters more than I think it will when I’m traveling.

Location-wise, it doesn’t get more central. You can walk to everything. Roman Forum, St. Donatus Church, the Sea Organ, that big Land Gate. And the waterfront’s just a few minutes away if you want to watch the sunset, which, by the way, is as good as they say. I didn’t need taxis once. The whole town is walkable.

Would I stay again? Absolutely. It’s not flashy, but it’s thoughtful. Comfortable. Quiet. And perfectly placed if you want to feel like you're part of the city, not just passing through it.

Restoran Konoba Martinac

I had dinner at Konoba Martinac one evening while in Zadar, and overall, it was a good experience. Not perfect, but good enough that I’d go back, just with adjusted expectations.

The setting is lovely, especially if you manage to grab a table in the inner courtyard. It feels quiet, local, almost hidden away. No flashing signs, no tourist menu in ten languages, no long queues. Just a peaceful spot tucked into the old town, with stone walls, vintage details, and a calm atmosphere. It’s got that kind of old-school charm Zadar does so well. But the service? Very slow. Painfully slow, at times. It wasn’t that the staff weren’t nice, they were - just clearly understaffed. You can tell they’re trying, but there’s only so much two or three people can do when the place fills up. I sat for quite a while before even getting a menu. That was probably the most frustrating part of the night. The food itself was good. I ordered the grilled squid with roasted vegetables, and the flavour was spot on. Rich, earthy, comforting. But - and this was a bit of a letdown, I found a little piece of net or thread in the dish. It might have been from the kitchen or the packaging, who knows, but it did kind of kill the mood. Nothing dramatic, just... annoying. If that hadn’t happened, I’d be raving about the food. Prices are fair for Croatia. Not cheap, but not overpriced either. It’s about what you’d expect for a sit-down meal in Zadar’s old town. You’re not going to find places cheaper unless you’re hitting fast food. Would I go again? Yeah, I think so. The food’s worth it, and the space has a vibe that’s hard to find. But maybe not if I’m in a rush or starving. It’s more of a slow evening kind of place. One where you come for the ambiance and stay a bit longer than planned - hopefully next time without any unexpected extras in the food.

Zagreb: Design Hotel Meets Old School Charm

Art'otel Zagreb

I wasn’t sure what to expect when I booked art’otel, but it honestly surprised me in the best way. From the minute I walked in, the staff were on point, super friendly, relaxed, and everyone I spoke to spoke great English, which made things smooth from the start. They helped with my bags and made me feel welcome right away, which is always a good sign.

I ended up spending a lot of time on the rooftop bar, which turned out to be a highlight. Great views, chill vibe, and the kind of place where it’s easy to strike up conversations. Met a few people there and ended up making some really nice memories. The breakfast buffet was solid. Everything you'd want fresh, varied, and not overcrowded. Pro tip: they also do made-to-order stuff, but it’s not immediately obvious, so don’t miss out. I almost did. Dinner on my last night was at their Japanese restaurant, and it completely exceeded my expectations. I was traveling solo, but I found myself wishing my husband was there to enjoy it with me, the food was genuinely that good. But the part that really stood out? The wellness center. The whole area: pool, saunas, lounge chairs, is spotless and smells fresh, which honestly isn’t always the case in hotel spas. Even when it got a bit busier, everything stayed clean. No puddles, no funky smells. Just calm, quiet, and well-kept.

I’ve got to give a shoutout to Marko, who was running the wellness space. He was friendly, attentive, and clearly takes pride in keeping everything running smoothly. Little things like that make a big difference. You feel like someone actually cares about the guest experience, not just going through the motions. Location-wise, the hotel is really well placed for exploring. I had a great lunch out, wandered a bit, came back to rest, then hit the rooftop for a drink. It all just flowed: no stress, no awkward moments, just good energy. Would I stay again? Absolutely. It’s rare to find a hotel where the staff, food, and vibe all come together like that. And if Marko’s still running the wellness center, even better.

Lunch at Stari Kotac 2

Sometimes you walk into a place and just know you’re in for something good. That was Stari Kotač for me. Tucked away in the Prečko neighborhood, this spot has been doing its thing since the early 80s, and you can feel that history the second you sit down. Nothing fancy, just a rustic, no-nonsense place where the focus is clearly on the food. It honestly felt like eating in someone’s home - if that someone had a serious talent for grilling. The walls were lined with old-school bits and pieces, and there was this comforting smell of charcoal in the air that made you instantly hungry, even if you weren’t before. I ordered one of the meat platters, which I think was a mix of ćevapi, ražnjići, and pljeskavica. It hit every note. Smoky, juicy, simple. No weird sauces, no fuss, just honest meat cooked well. You can tell they’ve been perfecting this for decades. The waitress was great - super relaxed and friendly. She suggested I try Teranino, a local liqueur I hadn’t heard of before. It tasted like something your Croatian grandma might sneak you after dinner - sweet, smooth, just enough bite. That recommendation alone earned her points. I left full, slightly buzzed, and genuinely happy. This wasn’t some curated “foodie experience.” It was just real, traditional food made with care and served without pretense. If you’re ever in Zagreb and feel like straying from the tourist path for a proper grilled meal, head to Prečko and find Stari Kotač. It’s worth it.