The City That Made Me Understand Why Everyone Loves San Sebastián
Stayed in Donostia / San Sebastián, Gipuzkoa, Spain | July 20–23
Before arriving in San Sebastián, I'd lost count of how many people had told me it would become one of the highlights of my northern Spain road trip. It's regularly described as one of Spain's most beautiful coastal cities and one of the best food destinations in Europe, so naturally my expectations were high. Thankfully, it didn't take long to realise that San Sebastián more than lives up to its reputation.
Known as Donostia in the Basque language, the city has a wonderful balance that makes it incredibly easy to enjoy. One moment you're walking beside one of Europe's most beautiful urban beaches, the next you're wandering through centuries-old streets lined with pintxos bars that seem to tempt you at every turn. Despite being a popular destination, it never felt rushed or overcrowded during my stay, and I quickly settled into a rhythm of leisurely walks, long lunches and evenings discovering why Basque cuisine is celebrated around the world.
I spent three days exploring the city and still felt like there was more to discover. It was one of those destinations where I never felt the need to rush from one attraction to the next because simply walking around was part of the experience. If you're wondering where I stayed during my visit, I also reviewed the hotel that made exploring the city incredibly easy. You can read about it here:
If you're planning your own trip to San Sebastián, these are the places I think deserve a spot on your itinerary.
A Little History of San Sebastián
Although San Sebastián is now internationally recognised for its food and beautiful coastline, its story began as a small fishing community on the Bay of Biscay. Its location close to the French border made it strategically important for centuries, and over time the city grew into an important port while still maintaining strong ties to the sea.
Everything changed during the nineteenth century when Queen Isabella II began visiting San Sebastián after doctors recommended the seawater for its health benefits. Before long, the Spanish royal family had adopted the city as their summer retreat, attracting aristocrats and wealthy visitors from across Europe. Elegant villas, grand hotels and the beautiful promenade around La Concha Bay soon followed, transforming what had once been a quiet fishing town into one of Spain's most fashionable seaside destinations.
Today, San Sebastián still carries that elegance, but it has never lost its authentic character. Fishing boats continue to arrive with the day's catch, family-run pintxos bars remain at the heart of local life, and the city's culinary scene has earned worldwide recognition with one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants anywhere in Europe. It's a place where tradition and modern life exist side by side, making every walk through the city feel like you're discovering another chapter of its history.
1. Walk Along La Concha Beach
Image courtesy of San Sebastián Turismo.
La Concha Beach | Around 20 minutes' walk from Hotel Catalonia Donosti
If someone asked me to picture San Sebastián in a single image, it would undoubtedly be La Concha Beach. Curving gracefully around the bay, it's one of those places that instantly makes you understand why so many people fall in love with this city. The golden sand, calm turquoise water and elegant promenade combine to create a setting that feels almost postcard perfect, yet somehow still manages to exceed expectations when you see it in person.
Rather than spending the day on the beach itself, I found myself returning to the promenade several times throughout my stay. The famous white railings stretch along the waterfront, offering uninterrupted views across the bay towards Santa Clara Island, while locals walked their dogs, jogged beside the sea or simply sat on benches enjoying the sunshine. It never felt overly busy, even during the middle of the day, and there was always somewhere to pause and admire the scenery.
I particularly enjoyed visiting in the early evening when the light became softer and the atmosphere slowed down. Restaurants began filling with diners, the beach became quieter and the entire bay took on a golden glow that made it difficult to put the camera away. Sometimes the simplest experiences end up becoming the most memorable, and walking beside La Concha was certainly one of those moments for me.
Allow: 2–3 hours.
Best for: Coastal walks, photography and relaxing beside one of Spain's most iconic beaches.
2. Explore Parte Vieja (Old Town)
Image courtesy of San Sebastián Turismo.
Parte Vieja | Around 20 minutes' walk from Hotel Catalonia Donosti
If La Concha showcases San Sebastián's elegance, Parte Vieja reveals its personality.
The city's historic Old Town is a lively network of narrow streets, colourful buildings and bustling plazas that have been at the heart of local life for centuries. This is where you'll find many of San Sebastián's famous pintxos bars, traditional restaurants, independent shops and some of its most important historic landmarks. It's also the neighbourhood where I spent far more time than I'd originally planned because every street seemed to lead somewhere worth exploring.
Instead of following a map, I wandered through the Old Town at my own pace, stopping whenever a busy bar caught my attention or an interesting building deserved a closer look. Among the highlights are the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Chorus and Plaza de la Constitución, a beautiful square surrounded by elegant arcaded buildings that once hosted bullfights and now serves as a lively meeting place for both locals and visitors.
As the afternoon slowly turns into evening, Parte Vieja takes on an entirely different atmosphere. People gather outside pintxos bars, conversations spill into the streets and every restaurant seems to come alive. Even if you're not planning to eat immediately, simply wandering through the neighbourhood is an experience in itself and one of the best ways to appreciate the city's unique culture.
Allow: 2–3 hours.
Best for: History, Basque culture and experiencing San Sebastián's famous pintxos scene.
Best Breakfast: Maiatza
Image courtesy of Maiatza.
San Sebastián | Around 15 minutes' walk from Hotel Catalonia Donosti
Finding a great breakfast spot is always one of my favourite parts of travelling, and Maiatza quickly became my go-to café while I was in San Sebastián. Located just a short walk from the city centre, it has a relaxed atmosphere that immediately makes you want to settle in rather than rushing through your meal before heading off to sightsee.
The menu focuses on fresh, simple breakfasts prepared with quality ingredients, alongside excellent speciality coffee. I ordered avocado on toasted sourdough with a flat white, and it turned out to be exactly the sort of breakfast I was hoping for before a full day of exploring. On another morning I returned for one of their homemade pastries and another coffee, which was just as enjoyable.
What I appreciated most was the atmosphere. The café attracted a mixture of locals catching up over coffee, remote workers and visitors like myself, giving it a genuine neighbourhood feel rather than feeling like somewhere designed purely for tourists. It's the kind of place I'd happily recommend to anyone looking for a relaxed start to the day.
Best for: Speciality coffee, fresh breakfasts and a welcoming local atmosphere.
Best Lunch: Gandarias
Image courtesy of Gandarias.
Parte Vieja | Around 20 minutes' walk from Hotel Catalonia Donosti
You can't visit San Sebastián without experiencing its famous pintxos culture, and Gandarias is one of the best places to do exactly that. Recommended time and time again by both locals and visitors, it has built a reputation for serving beautifully prepared Basque dishes using exceptional local ingredients, and after stopping here for lunch, it was easy to understand why.
The first thing you'll notice is the incredible display of pintxos lining the counter, each one carefully presented and almost impossible to resist. While many people choose to sample a selection of these small bites, the restaurant also offers an excellent menu featuring grilled seafood and premium Basque beef.
I decided to enjoy several pintxos before ordering grilled beef sirloin as my main course, and every dish showcased the quality of the region's produce. The atmosphere was lively without feeling chaotic, the staff kept everything moving efficiently despite the constant flow of customers, and lunch here became one of my favourite dining experiences in the city.
Best for: Traditional pintxos, Basque cuisine and experiencing one of San Sebastián's most popular restaurants.
Best Dinner: Rekondo
Image courtesy of Rekondo.
San Sebastián | Around 8 minutes by car from Hotel Catalonia Donosti
For my final evening in San Sebastián, I wanted somewhere that reflected the city's outstanding culinary reputation, and Rekondo proved to be the perfect choice. Set slightly away from the busy centre and surrounded by beautiful gardens, the restaurant offers an elegant setting without ever feeling overly formal.
The menu celebrates traditional Basque cooking while allowing the outstanding local ingredients to take centre stage. Fresh seafood, premium meats and seasonal produce are prepared with confidence and simplicity, creating dishes that are refined without becoming overly complicated. I enjoyed beautifully prepared local seafood followed by perfectly cooked Basque beef, finishing the evening with one of the restaurant's classic desserts and a decaf coffee.
Combined with attentive service and a relaxed atmosphere, it was the perfect way to end my stay in one of Spain's greatest food cities. If you're looking to treat yourself to one memorable dinner while visiting San Sebastián, I'd happily recommend making a reservation here.
Best for: Elegant Basque dining and special occasions.
Why San Sebastián Became One of My Favourite Cities in Spain
Looking back, what impressed me most about San Sebastián wasn't just one attraction or one incredible meal. It was the way everything came together so effortlessly. The city has an elegance that's impossible to ignore, yet it never feels pretentious. You can spend the morning walking beside La Concha Beach, lose yourself in the streets of the Old Town during the afternoon and finish the day enjoying some of the best food you'll find anywhere in Spain.
Although three days gave me enough time to experience many of the city's highlights, I left feeling like there was still plenty more to discover. That's usually a good sign that a destination has left a lasting impression.
If you're planning a road trip through northern Spain, I'd strongly recommend making time for San Sebastián. Whether you're visiting for the beaches, the history or the world-famous food, I think you'll quickly understand why so many people consider it one of Spain's finest cities.
