Biarritz, France: A Seaside Town That Completely Won Me Over
Stayed in Biarritz, France | July 23–26
Crossing the border from Spain into France felt like the beginning of a completely different chapter of my road trip. Although the distance between San Sebastián and Biarritz is relatively short, the atmosphere changes almost immediately. The architecture becomes distinctly French, cafés spill onto elegant streets, and the pace of life somehow feels both relaxed and sophisticated at the same time.
Biarritz has long been known as one of France's most glamorous seaside destinations, but I quickly discovered there's much more to it than beautiful beaches and luxury boutiques. It's a town where surfing culture blends effortlessly with grand Belle Époque architecture, lively food markets and spectacular Atlantic views. Whether I was wandering along the coastline, enjoying a leisurely lunch or simply sitting with a coffee watching the world go by, Biarritz felt like somewhere that encourages you to slow down and enjoy every moment.
I spent three days exploring the town, and it proved to be the perfect introduction to France's Basque Coast. If you're wondering where I stayed during my visit, I also reviewed the hotel that made exploring Biarritz incredibly easy. You can read about it here:
If you're planning your own visit, these are the places I think you shouldn't miss.
A Little History of Biarritz
It's hard to imagine today, but Biarritz was once nothing more than a small Basque fishing village whose economy revolved around whaling. For centuries, local fishermen headed out into the Bay of Biscay in search of whales, and the town remained relatively quiet until the nineteenth century when everything changed.
In the 1850s, Emperor Napoleon III and Empress Eugénie chose Biarritz as their summer retreat, transforming the once modest fishing village into one of Europe's most fashionable seaside resorts. Aristocrats and royalty from across the continent soon followed, leading to the construction of elegant villas, luxurious hotels and grand promenades that still give the town much of its character today.
While Biarritz has retained its reputation for elegance, it has also become one of Europe's best-known surfing destinations. The Atlantic waves attract surfers from around the world, creating a unique atmosphere where luxury hotels, designer boutiques and surf shops all exist side by side. It's an unusual combination, but somehow it works perfectly.
1. Visit Rocher de la Vierge
Image courtesy of Biarritz Tourisme.
Rocher de la Vierge | Around 15 minutes' walk from ALFRED HOTELS – Les Halles
If there's one place that defines Biarritz, it's Rocher de la Vierge.
Connected to the mainland by a striking metal footbridge designed by Gustave Eiffel's engineering company, this rocky outcrop has become the town's most recognisable landmark. Standing at the end of the walkway, you're surrounded by nothing but crashing Atlantic waves, rugged cliffs and spectacular panoramic views stretching along the coastline.
I visited during the late afternoon when the light was beginning to soften, and it was easily one of the most memorable moments of my stay. Looking back towards the town, you can appreciate Biarritz's elegant skyline, while in the opposite direction the vast Atlantic seems to stretch endlessly towards the horizon.
It's one of those places where you don't need to spend hours. Simply taking your time, enjoying the scenery and listening to the waves is enough to understand why it's become one of the town's most photographed attractions.
Allow: Around 1 hour.
Best for: Coastal views, photography and one of Biarritz's most iconic landmarks.
2. Wander Around Les Halles Market
Image courtesy of Biarritz Tourisme.
Les Halles | Around 2 minutes' walk from ALFRED HOTELS – Les Halles
One of the things I enjoy most when travelling is visiting local food markets, and Les Halles quickly became one of my favourite places in Biarritz.
This lively covered market sits at the heart of the town and offers a wonderful glimpse into everyday life. Local producers fill the stalls with artisan cheeses, freshly baked bread, colourful fruit and vegetables, seafood straight from the Atlantic and a tempting selection of Basque specialities.
Even if you're not planning to buy anything, it's worth wandering through simply to experience the atmosphere. The market is full of locals shopping for fresh ingredients alongside visitors sampling regional delicacies, creating a lively yet welcoming environment that feels genuinely authentic.
Outside, the surrounding streets are lined with cafés and restaurants where people gather throughout the day, making it an ideal place to slow down with a coffee or enjoy a leisurely lunch before continuing your walk around town.
Allow: 1–2 hours.
Best for: Local food, Basque produce and experiencing everyday life in Biarritz.
Best Breakfast: Milwaukee Café
Image courtesy of Milwaukee Café.
Biarritz | Around 5 minutes' walk from ALFRED HOTELS – Les Halles
Finding Milwaukee Café was one of the highlights of my mornings in Biarritz. Popular with both locals and visitors, the café has earned an excellent reputation for speciality coffee and generous breakfasts served in a bright, modern space with a relaxed atmosphere.
I ordered avocado on toasted sourdough with poached eggs alongside a flat white, and it was exactly the sort of breakfast I enjoy before spending the day exploring a new destination. On another morning, I returned for one of their freshly baked pastries and another excellent coffee, which was just as enjoyable.
What I liked most was how welcoming the café felt. Rather than trying to rush customers through, it encouraged people to sit back, enjoy their breakfast and ease into the day, which suited Biarritz's laid-back atmosphere perfectly.
Best for: Speciality coffee, healthy breakfasts and a relaxed café atmosphere.
Best Lunch: Chez Albert
Image courtesy of Chez Albert.
Port des Pêcheurs | Around 10 minutes' walk from ALFRED HOTELS – Les Halles
Being on the Atlantic coast, it seemed only right to enjoy fresh seafood for lunch, and Chez Albert turned out to be an excellent choice.
Located beside the picturesque fishing harbour, the restaurant has been serving traditional Basque and French cuisine for decades, with seafood naturally taking centre stage. The setting alone makes it worth visiting, but it was the quality of the food that really impressed me.
I ordered grilled sea bass served with seasonal vegetables and roasted potatoes, followed by a light homemade dessert and a decaf coffee. Everything was beautifully prepared without unnecessary fuss, allowing the freshness of the ingredients to speak for themselves.
Combined with views across the harbour and friendly service throughout the meal, it was exactly the sort of relaxed lunch I was hoping to enjoy while in Biarritz.
Best for: Fresh seafood, harbour views and classic Basque cuisine.
Best Dinner: L'Impertinent
Image courtesy of L'Impertinent.
Biarritz | Around 8 minutes' walk from ALFRED HOTELS – Les Halles
For my final evening in Biarritz, I wanted to experience one of the town's best restaurants, and L'Impertinent certainly delivered.
Awarded a Michelin star, the restaurant offers modern French cuisine with strong Basque influences, showcasing exceptional local produce through beautifully presented seasonal tasting menus. The dining room is contemporary yet welcoming, while the service manages to feel attentive without ever becoming overly formal.
Every course demonstrated real attention to detail, balancing creativity with flavours that remained true to the region. It was one of those dinners where each dish naturally led to the next, making the entire evening feel like a carefully crafted experience rather than simply another meal.
If you're looking to enjoy one memorable dinner during your time in Biarritz, I'd highly recommend making a reservation here.
Best for: Michelin-starred dining and contemporary French cuisine.
Why Biarritz Was the Perfect Introduction to France
Looking back, Biarritz was exactly the kind of destination I hoped it would be. It has the elegance you'd expect from one of France's most famous seaside towns, but it also feels welcoming, relaxed and refreshingly unpretentious.
What I enjoyed most was the variety each day offered. I could spend the morning walking beside the Atlantic, browse local markets before lunch, enjoy exceptional seafood in the afternoon and finish the evening with one of the best meals of my trip. It never felt like there was any pressure to rush between attractions because simply soaking up the atmosphere was part of the experience.
Although many visitors come for a weekend, I thought three days was the perfect amount of time to appreciate everything Biarritz has to offer. If you're travelling through the French Basque Country, I'd strongly recommend adding it to your itinerary. For me, it was one of the most enjoyable stops of my entire road trip and somewhere I'd happily return to in the future.
