From Peaks to Ports: A Few Days Driving Through Northern Italy

Day 1 in Trento: The Quiet Start in the Mountains

As I continued my journey, I drove from Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Germany down to Trento, Italy. The drive was just under four hours, but honestly, it flew by - Alpine roads, a couple of tunnels that felt like they went on forever, and that slow but satisfying shift from Bavarian forests to Italian valleys. I didn’t have a big plan. Just needed a change of pace, and Trento seemed like the right kind of place: not too loud, not too touristy, still beautiful.

Trento sits quietly in northern Italy, tucked between mountains, and it's kind of like that one person at a party who doesn’t try to impress but ends up being the most interesting one in the room. It’s part of the Trentino-Alto Adige region, which has this cool blend of Italian and Austrian culture. You’ll hear both languages on the streets. Even the buildings tell stories - pastel Renaissance facades with a bit of that Tyrolean sharpness, like the city never really had to pick a side.

Historically, Trento was a pretty big deal. Back in the 1500s, it hosted the Council of Trent, which if you're into history was basically the Catholic Church’s big comeback conference. These days, it’s more laid-back: students, locals, a few travelers passing through. The city feels lived-in and loved, not polished for tourists. You're surrounded by the Dolomites, so even just walking around town, you catch glimpses of peaks behind rooftops.

After rolling into Trento and wandering around a bit, I checked into this place called Be Place Hotel and honestly, it was exactly what I needed. It's not one of those huge chains that all feel the same. It’s small, modern, super clean, and has this calm, low-key vibe that makes you instantly slow down.

The hotel sits just a few minutes' drive from the city center, in a quiet spot with these absolutely insane mountain views. I stayed in the Superior Design Room, which kind of lived up to the name - simple but really well thought out. Every corner of the room felt intentional, like someone actually cared when they put it together. The bed? Comfy enough that I didn’t want to get up, and everything was spotless. Like, not just hotel-standard clean, but genuinely clean.

And the peace - wow. No city noise, no thin hotel walls where you hear your neighbors zipping their suitcase. Just stillness.

But what really surprised me was the breakfast. I don’t usually rave about breakfast buffets, but this one was next level. It wasn’t just the usual spread of croissants and toast. There were homemade pastries, fresh local cheeses, vegetables, savory pies, perfect eggs and bacon that actually tasted like something , and not just filler. 

The staff were young, warm, and actually seemed happy to be there. It’s always a good sign when the people working at a hotel feel like they’re on your side. They also gave me great tips about where to eat and park in town.

If you’ve got more time or a special occasion coming up - try to grab one of the top-floor rooms with a private sauna and whirlpool on the terrace. I didn’t stay in that one (maybe next time), but I did get a peek. You’re basically sitting in hot water, steam rising around you, and you’ve got a front-row seat to the mountains. Honestly, it looked like the kind of thing you’d only find in a five-star spa resort.

After checking in and taking a bit of a breather, I drove into town for dinner. I had my eye on Forsterbräu Trento, and it turned out to be a great call. As the name suggests, the place leans heavily into German-Bavarian vibe and not in a gimmicky way. Dark wood interiors, vintage beer signs, little design details everywhere. Warm lighting, long tables, and staff dressed in full traditional German gear. The atmosphere had personality.

The menu had plenty of gluten-free options, clearly marked, which already put me at ease. But I barely made it past the first page because I spotted something incredible being served at the next table. I asked for the same without hesitation. 

Pork shank. Whole. About 800g. Crispy golden rind, insanely tender meat. Served with sauerkraut and baked potatoes tossed with onion and bacon. For €17.50, it was both a meal and an event. Didn’t stay long after that. Just a quiet drive back to the hotel under the mountain sky. I had another trip ahead - Trieste was waiting the next morning, but Trento had already left a mark. 

Between Boats and Marble: Wandering Trieste

Day 2: Trieste Begins with a Sea View and a Scallop

The next morning, I checked out of Be Place, took one last look at the mountains, and hit the road again. Destination: Trieste. It was my first time in both Trento and Trieste, and even though they’re not that far apart, you feel the shift right away. Different rhythm. Different light. And, for sure, a very different vibe.

That contrast hit me the moment I pulled up to my next hotel: Savoia Excelsior Palace.

If Be Place in Trento was all about clean modern lines, peace and simplicity, this place was the opposite - in the best possible way. Savoia Excelsior feels like stepping into another era. Think marble floors, sweeping staircases, high ceilings, elegant details everywhere. It has this quiet grandeur.

The hotel sits right on the waterfront, in the heart of the city. Most of the rooms face the sea, and luckily, so did mine. If you’re going, do yourself a favor and get the sea view. Waking up to sunlight glinting off the water, boats drifting by, and the occasional ocean liner sliding past your window? Unreal.

The building itself has history. It was built in 1911, the result of an architectural competition, and it still reflects that Austro-Hungarian splendor Trieste is known for. But even with all the marble and chandeliers, it feels surprisingly cozy. Warm lighting, calm energy, and staff who genuinely seem proud of where they work.

Another perk: everything starts right outside your door. The promenade, the boats, the best cafés in town - it’s all just a minute’s walk away. No car needed.

And then there’s the food. The hotel restaurant focuses on local dishes, Friuli wines, and ingredients that actually taste like they come from somewhere.

Speaking of food - once I settled into Trieste’s rhythm, which feels way more seaside-aristocratic than mountain-calm - I decided to wander around a bit. I wasn’t really in the mood for anything classic or heavy, so I looked up something new on Google Maps. Found this spot called Madreperla Bistrot, just a 5-minute walk from the hotel.

And wow. What a find. The place is small, but incredibly warm and welcoming. Modern interior, soft lighting, beautiful details.

The menu is where things get even more interesting. Not your typical Trieste seafood lineup. Instead, they play with creative combinations, flavors that catch you off guard in the best way. I started with an appetizer with scallops, celeriac, kale, and katsobushi. I still don’t quite understand how all those elements worked together, but they did beautifully. It was rich, smoky, buttery, crisp. Genuinely unforgettable. If you’re into trying something a little off the beaten path, and appreciate thought and subtlety in your food, Madreperla is 100% worth your time. I'd go again in a second. 

Day 3: Cafés, Canals, and the Soft Edges of Trieste

The morning kicked off with breakfast at the hotel - solid as expected. Strong coffee, eggs done right, local prosciutto, a couple bites of fruit. No need to overthink it. The view over the water helped wake me up better than any caffeine.

I wanted to get a workout in, so I walked over to Club Fitness Centre Trieste. It’s not far, maybe ten minutes on foot. Walk-in was no problem. Place had everything I needed - weights, proper machines, space to move. Just a clean, functional gym with good energy. Got a full session in, cleared my head a bit.

Afterwards, I threw on a clean shirt and wandered through the city for a while. No destination, just a light walk around Trieste to get a feel for the place. It has definitely got a presence. Big, proud buildings with that faded empire feel. Wide streets, sea breeze, and a mix of Italian charm with something more… rigid, almost Austrian. You can tell this city’s been through a few phases.

I passed through Piazza Unità d’Italia, and even though it’s one of the city’s main tourist spots, it doesn’t feel overrun. It’s massive, open, and faces straight out to the sea - one of those spots where you stop without meaning to. 

From there, I wandered past the Teatro Verdi, small but elegant, and kept walking toward the Canal Grande - Trieste’s version of Venice’s canals, though shorter and more laid-back. A few boats bobbing quietly, locals walking their dogs, the smell of fresh coffee from the cafés lining the edges. It’s all very casual, but also very precise. Everything has its place here.

I ran into this place and decided to crash there for a bit - Mimì e Cocotte. Kind of hipster, but in the best way. Retro fridges, cool art, a random piano in the corner, a touch of that French bistro feel, and this calm, easygoing atmosphere that makes you want to stay longer than you meant to.

I went for an avocado toast and a coffee - basic, I know, but it really hit the spot. Sat there for a while, zoning out, half-listening to the soft hum of conversations, thinking about where to go next.

When I stepped back out, the light had shifted. One of those golden afternoon hours where everything feels slower. I didn’t have a plan, just drifted toward the sea. The streets opened up near the canal, that quiet Trieste glow bouncing off the water. Boats gently swaying, people lingering on benches, taking their time. Same as me.

Later that evening, I found a spot nearby for dinner. Can’t even remember the name - one of those places with a few small tables outside and a handwritten menu. I sat out under the warm evening glow, the city lit up in that quiet, understated way Trieste does so well. Just me, a glass of wine, and some kind of pasta that tasted way better than it had to.

After that, I walked a bit more, then headed back to the hotel. Needed to get some rest - tomorrow I’d be driving out, crossing into the next country. Another border, another language, another story waiting.

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German Diaries: My Adventure Through Castles & Spas