German Diaries: My Adventure Through Castles & Spas

I continued my June trip through Germany with zero expectations and ended up having one of the most soul-soothing, scenic, and surprisingly luxurious travel weeks I’ve had in a while. If you’re thinking of exploring Germany solo, especially in summer, I can’t recommend it enough - the hospitality, the landscapes, the breakfasts alone are reason enough to go.

Stop 1: Leipzig - Steigenberger Icon Grandhotel Handelshof

Leipzig was my first stop on this trip, and staying at the Steigenberger Grandhotel Handelshof set the tone right. The location couldn’t have been better, right in the heart of the city, steps from Naschmarkt, the Old Town Hall, and all the main streets. I didn’t need to plan much in advance; everything was just outside the door, and I could wander as I liked.

The hotel is tucked behind a grand old facade, but inside it’s modern, elegant, and quietly luxurious. My room was big, stylish, and super comfortable. Separate toilet, proper bathroom, excellent air conditioning, and spotlessly clean. What really stood out was the attention to detail, every time I came back, the room was fresh, tidy, and just felt like someone actually cared. Check-in was smooth, and the staff were polite and helpful from the start. They handled the car situation professionally, gave clear info, and sorted everything quickly. Parking can be a bit tricky in this area, so I’d suggest using the Marktgalerie underground garage nearby. It's close, easy, and safe.

I didn’t end up using the gym, but I checked out the wellness area and it looked pretty solid - good size, modern, and quiet. If I’d had more time, I would’ve definitely spent an hour or two there just to decompress. Breakfast was honestly one of the highlights. It was a mix of buffet and à la carte, and everything was fresh, well-prepared, and generous. I found myself actually looking forward to it each morning, which doesn’t happen often. Germans take their breakfasts seriously, and it shows.

Overall, the hotel really lived up to its reputation. Elegant without being flashy, comfortable without trying too hard, and perfectly placed for getting to know Leipzig on foot. If you’re here for music, museums, or just wandering the streets with a coffee in hand, this place makes a great base.

What to see in Leipzig: Bach Museum

I found myself across from St. Thomas Church, where Johann Sebastian Bach once worked, composed, and is now buried. There’s a statue of him out front, slightly larger than life, looking out over the square. It’s hard not to feel something when you stand there, knowing the man who shaped so much of music is just a few steps away, beneath the church floor.

Right opposite is the Bach Museum. I hadn’t planned on staying long, but ended up spending the better part of the afternoon inside. It’s not a huge place, but it’s packed with detail. Interactive exhibits let you hear the sounds of Baroque instruments, and there’s a treasure room filled with manuscripts and originals. One of the highlights was seeing the organ Bach used in St. John’s Church in the mid-1700s. There’s also a digital map on the floor of the museum showing where Bach lived and worked around Leipzig, with old photos and info. It’s a simple but clever way to bring his world to life.

What really made the visit special was the English-language guided tour I joined, part of the Bach Fest 2025. The focus was on recent breakthroughs in studying Bach’s work, and it gave a whole new perspective. I hadn’t realised how much he reused his own compositions. During his first five years in Leipzig, he produced a huge amount of music. But later on, he often went back to earlier themes and reworked them, combining them with different instruments depending on who he had available or what the occasion called for. It wasn’t seen as lazy or repetitive back then. If anything, it was a way to keep things evolving. Händel did the same, though often to meet deadlines or recycle a crowd-pleaser.

Another thing I didn’t know: looking at a music manuscript doesn’t tell you much about who actually wrote it by hand. Bach worked in full scores, showing all parts on one page. Then his pupils and family members would copy everything out, line by line, for each instrument and voice. The museum had displays showing how scholars identify different copyists and estimate when a piece was written based on handwriting and paper type. It was more fascinating than I expected.

If you’re heading to Leipzig, the museum is worth a stop even if you’re not a classical music fan. And if you’re around during Bach Fest, definitely look into the special tours. I don’t think the regular audio guide includes everything we heard. This one felt like stepping into a story, not just a museum.

Stop 2: Dresden - Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski

Dresden has a completely different energy. Regal, calm, and incredibly photogenic. After Leipzig’s creative buzz, arriving in this Baroque city felt like stepping into a painting. Staying at Hotel Taschenbergpalais Kempinski only amplified that feeling. This wasn’t just another five-star hotel; it genuinely felt like I was staying in a modern-day palace. Turns out, that’s pretty much true. The building was originally commissioned by Augustus the Strong in 1705 for his mistress, Countess Cosel, and the grandeur is still very much intact.

The location is unbeatable. Right in the heart of the historic center, I could walk out the door and be at the Zwinger Palace, Semper Opera House, or Elbe River promenade in minutes. But honestly, the hotel itself was a destination. Following a complete renovation, everything feels fresh, high-end, and tastefully done. It doesn’t just show off luxury, it lives it quietly and confidently.

My room had those high ceilings that instantly make you exhale and slow down. There were thoughtful design details everywhere: custom furniture, heated floors, blackout curtains that actually worked, and a bathroom with both a tub and a rain shower, double sinks, and even a movable shaving mirror cleverly placed so it worked from either side. The air conditioning was subtle. None of that dry, recycled feel. I could also open the windows for fresh air, which I appreciated.

What really stood out was how considered everything was. Even the towels were placed inside the shower at arm’s reach but far enough not to get soaked. It’s these small things that make a solo stay feel easier, more comfortable. I wasn’t just occupying a nice room. I felt looked after.

The service was consistently excellent, especially the concierge and front desk team. Attentive, warm, and never over-the-top. One of the things that made me smile was the “lunch package” they offered when I told them I’d be leaving too early for breakfast on my last day. Without me asking, they had it packed and ready at checkout. A small gesture, but one that really stuck with me.

When I did make it to breakfast, it was exceptional. The buffet had all the usual suspects, but the à la carte egg dishes and porridge were the real stars. Honestly one of the best hotel breakfasts I’ve had in a while. Beautifully prepared, not fussy, just spot on.

The hotel also has a full wellness area with a pool, sauna, steam room, and treatment rooms. I didn’t squeeze in a massage this time, but the space looked peaceful and well-run. It would be perfect after a day of sightseeing or if the weather turns grey.

All in all, Taschenbergpalais Kempinski completely lived up to its history and reputation. It’s a place where you can feel alone but not lonely. Luxurious without being sterile, grand without being intimidating. Whether you’re wandering solo or simply slowing down for a few days, this hotel gives you space to breathe, sleep deeply, and enjoy Dresden in all its regal stillness.

Wandering the Zwinger Palace Courtyard in Dresden

I’ve seen a lot of beautiful buildings on this trip, but Zwinger Palace in Dresden really stopped me in my tracks.

I didn’t go in with a detailed plan. I’d just finished breakfast at the Kempinski, walked out into the crisp morning air, and followed the quiet pull of Baroque architecture. A few minutes later, I found myself standing in the middle of the Zwinger courtyard, surrounded by sculpted stone, fountains, symmetry, and golden accents catching the morning light in a way that made everything feel slightly unreal.

There’s something special about seeing a place like this alone. You’re not distracted by conversation or trying to get the perfect photo for someone else. You can just stand there and take it in. I must’ve lingered in that courtyard for ten minutes before even reaching for my phone. The soft hum of the fountains, the distant sound of footsteps, the breeze moving across the stone railings, it was peaceful, almost meditative.

The architecture is bold and elegant. Built in the early 1700s by Augustus the Strong, the Zwinger was originally designed as a festival ground and exhibition space. But it has this royal atmosphere that makes it feel more like a palace than anything else. Every arch is detailed, every balustrade carved, and the Crown Gate, with its black dome and golden crown, looks like it belongs in a film.

What really stood out to me was the sense of calm. For such a major landmark, it wasn’t chaotic. Maybe I got lucky by arriving just after opening, but there was a surprising stillness to the whole place. A few locals strolled by with takeaway coffees, some tourists walked quietly with their cameras, and I felt lucky to be there on my own, with nowhere to be and nothing to rush for.

I didn’t go into the museums this time. The Old Masters Gallery and the Porcelain Collection are definitely on my list, but I wasn’t in the mood to be indoors. This visit was about being outside, walking slowly, soaking it all in. That’s one of the best things about solo travel. No one’s waiting on you. No one’s steering the day. You can stop and stand still for no reason at all.

If you’re visiting Dresden, make time for the Zwinger courtyard. It’s free to enter, and even if you don’t step inside a single exhibit, the experience of just being there is worth it. Bring a coffee, take your time, sit by the fountains, and let the history sink in. I did, and it turned into one of the most memorable mornings of my trip.

Stop 3: Regensburg - Novotel Regensburg Zentrum

This wasn’t meant to be more than a pit stop, just a quick one-night stay on my way south. I booked Novotel Regensburg Zentrum last minute, mostly because it had good reviews and seemed convenient. I didn’t expect much, but it actually turned out to be one of the smoother stays of the trip.

Even before arriving, the staff were kind and helpful over the phone. That already gave me a good feeling, especially after a long travel day. When I showed up, check-in was quick and relaxed. The room was genuinely spotless, one of the cleanest I’ve had in a while. Simple, comfortable, nothing flashy, but everything just felt well maintained.

I have to mention Bianca and Millet at reception. They were incredibly generous with their time. The room was quiet, facing an inner courtyard, which meant uninterrupted sleep. Soundproofing was solid; I didn’t hear a thing. The bed was big and comfortable, and the room came with two proper armchairs, something you rarely see, even in nicer hotels. It made it feel less like a transient stop and more like a place you could settle into. The bathroom and toilet were in separate rooms, which has its ups and downs. Not a huge issue, but it made both spaces feel a bit tight.

Breakfast had fruit, yogurt, cereal, cold cuts, pretzels, and even white sausages and liver cheese if you’re going full Bavarian. I usually keep it simple, but I couldn’t resist the smoked salmon. It was proper quality, not the soft, watery kind you sometimes get at buffets. Everything was fresh, nothing felt phoned in.

There’s a small bar downstairs with low armchairs and a relaxed vibe. I had one cocktail before calling it a night and was pleasantly surprised. Well mixed, not overly sweet, just solid. Location-wise, the hotel is close enough to Regensburg’s UNESCO-listed old town that you can walk to the main spots without much effort.

What to see in Regensburg: The Regensburg Cathedral

If you’re in Regensburg, you really can’t miss St. Peter’s Cathedral. It’s the city’s most iconic building and a true masterpiece of Gothic design. The twin spires rise above the old town, and whether you’re into architecture or not, it’s hard not to stop and stare.

Construction started way back in the 1200s and stretched out over centuries, which is probably why there’s so much detail everywhere you look from the intricate stone carvings to the huge stained glass windows that flood the space inside with soft, colorful light. The interior is just as impressive, with massive columns and vaulted ceilings that make you feel tiny in the best way. One of the most special things about this place is the Regensburger Domspatzen, the famous boys’ choir that’s been performing sacred music here for over a thousand years. If you happen to catch a concert or service while they’re singing, it’s something you won’t forget anytime soon.

You can also check out the cathedral’s treasury, full of religious artifacts, and the crypt below, where some of Regensburg’s bishops are buried. It’s all right in the middle of the old town, so it’s super easy to stop by while exploring the city. Even if you’re not usually into churches, this one has a way of drawing you in. Take a few quiet moments inside, it’s peaceful, powerful, and hands down one of the city’s highlights.

Stop 4: Berchtesgaden – Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden

Image courtesy of Kempinski Hotel Berchtesgaden

This place is something else. Tucked 1000 meters up in the Bavarian Alps, Kempinski Berchtesgaden offers exactly what I needed at that point in my trip quiet, comfort, and views that stop you in your tracks.

My room was spacious, modern, and opened up to a view of the mountains that genuinely made me pause. Everything felt considered. Clean lines, warm lighting, a sleek marble bathroom -it was the kind of space you look forward to coming back to after a day out. The staff were on point from the moment I arrived. Polite without being stiff, helpful without hovering. Special thanks to Ana at the Kaminbar - she had a great way of making me feel at home without overdoing it. Her food recommendations were spot on, and she just had this calm, friendly presence that added something extra to the whole experience.

Speaking of food - breakfast was serious. Loads of variety, quality ingredients, and extended hours, which was great because I wasn’t in any rush to get out of bed. Dinner at Restaurant Johann Grill was also a highlight. It’s the kind of place where even the bread and butter feel elevated. Everything I ate during my stay was fresh, thoughtful, and full of flavour. They’ve got a whole concierge team who’ll help you plan hikes, bike rides, or whatever you're into, though I was more in the mood to do nothing and just take it all in. The spa was decent, maybe could use a small refresh in places like the sauna, but still had everything you'd want to unwind.

What makes this hotel stand out isn’t just the architecture or the location (though both are stunning). It’s how smooth and effortless they make everything feel. It’s the kind of place where you don’t have to ask for much because they’ve already thought of it. For a solo traveler, that kind of ease goes a long way. Kempinski Berchtesgaden earns its place as one of the best stays I’ve had in the Alps. If you're after a few days of fresh air, mountain views, and proper hospitality, this one’s worth it.

What to see in Berchtesgaden: Königssee

Tucked deep in Berchtesgaden National Park, Königssee is one of those places that makes you feel small in the best way. I decided to visit alone - no tour group, no boat ride, just me and the path along the lake. Sometimes, that’s all you really need.

The lake itself is ridiculously beautiful, deep emerald green, crystal clear, and framed by steep mountain walls that seem to guard it from the world. It’s actually Germany’s deepest lake, but what hit me most wasn’t the stats - it was the silence. There’s something grounding about standing there with no music, no city noise, just birds, breeze, and the occasional crunch of gravel under your shoes.

I followed the lakeside trail for a while, stopping whenever something caught my eye - a reflection on the water, a small wooden dock, or just a perfect patch of sunlight to sit in for a few minutes. It’s the kind of place where you don’t need a plan. You just go slow, breathe deeper, and let the view do its thing.

There’s a lot of buzz about the boat ride to St. Bartholomew and the trumpet echo and maybe I’ll come back for that. But this time, skipping the boat felt right. It gave me the space to take it all in without rushing or ticking boxes.

If you ever find yourself near Berchtesgaden, give yourself a few hours at Königssee. Walk the trail, sit by the water, bring a book or don’t. Just be there. Alone or not, it’s a place that speaks quietly and stays with you long after you leave.

Final Stop: Garmisch-Partenkirchen - Hotel Obermühle Spa Resort

I’ve stayed in quite a few hotels around Germany, but my last stop in Garmisch-Partenkirchen might just take the crown. Obermühle felt like a hidden retreat tucked away in the Alps, and it hit that perfect balance between tradition and luxury.

First off, proper air conditioning in the room a rare and underrated win in this part of the country. My room had auto blinds, heated floors, and a balcony facing the mountains. The kind of bed you sink into and forget the outside world exists. I went for the half-board option, and breakfast was solid with plenty of variety. Lunch was a bit more average, but honestly, I didn’t care. I was too busy soaking in the views or the spa.

The spa deserves its own paragraph. Finnish sauna, infrared cabin, ice tunnel, infinity pool - yeah, they thought of everything. Even the lavender pillow mist they spritz on your sheets had me knocked out in minutes. Mornings were for jogging on the quiet forest paths behind the hotel, and the rest of the day? Guilt-free lounging, thank you very much.

What stood out the most, though, was the staff. I was the only non-German speaker I came across, but not once did I feel out of place. The team was warm, chatty, and genuinely helpful curious in that friendly, not-nosey kind of way. They even offer a free shuttle into town if you manage to peel yourself away from the spa long enough to explore.

Obermühle has been around for over 350 years, and nearly 100 of those have been dedicated to hospitality. You can feel that history in the details wood-beamed ceilings, alpine touches, a sense of calm tradition but everything’s been updated with modern comforts. Every room has a balcony or terrace, and if you really want to splash out, the Executive Floor offers master suites with saunas, kitchens, and sweeping mountain views.

What to see in Garmisch-Partenkirchen:

First off - Zugspitze, Germany’s highest mountain. Take the cable car up, and you’ll feel like you’re standing on the edge of the world. As we climbed, the landscape kept shifting rolling hills, rocky peaks, then suddenly we were inside a cloud. We eventually reached 2,962 meters, literally above the clouds, and stepped out onto the viewing platform. What’s wild is that you’re standing on the border and Germany on one side, Austria on the other with panoramic views that are hard to describe without sounding dramatic. But it really is that good. I had been checking the weather forecasts leading up to the day, and I’m glad I did. It was clear and sunny when I went, which made all the difference. The day before, it had been snowing. If you can, time your visit for a sunny day, it’s unreal how far you can see.One tip: go early. I went up before 10 a.m., and it was fairly quiet. By the time I was heading down a bit after 11, the line was massive, completely packed. It’s freezing up there, even in the sun. My hands went numb pretty quickly, but honestly, I didn’t care. The views made it more than worth it.