Off the Radar: My Quiet Stay in Metsovo and Meteora
I didn’t come to Metsovo with big expectations. I just wanted some quiet, some space, and a bit of that slow-travel feeling I hadn’t had in a while. Greece is usually about beaches or ruins, right? But this time I wanted something different - no crowds, no heatwaves, just a few days in the mountains doing absolutely nothing, on purpose.
I ended up booking Grand Forest Metsovo, not really knowing what I was walking into. Turned out to be one of the best places I’ve stayed in Greece.
The drive into Metsovo is already something else. You’re winding through thick pine forest, with fog hanging in patches across the slopes and those jagged mountain views you can’t quite photograph right. By the time I reached the hotel, I was already half-zenned out. Grand Forest Metsovo sits just above the town, completely tucked into nature. It’s quiet and not in a dead kind of way, but in a calm, grounded, "let me take a deep breath" kind of way. You step out of the car and all you hear is wind through the trees and the occasional bell from a goat in the distance. I didn’t realize how much noise I carry around with me until it was gone. I booked the Junior Suite with Garden View, and to be honest, I didn’t spend much time looking at the garden. I was glued to the window watching the clouds roll across the valley. The suite itself had everything I needed a big bed, proper blackout curtains, natural fabrics, and a warm, earthy feel. It didn’t feel overdone or fake-luxury. It felt like someone actually cared about how people feel when they’re traveling solo and want to feel held, not just impressed. I had wine in the room the first night and just sat there doing nothing, watching the light change. That was enough. The breakfast was lovely. The buffet felt intentional: local yogurt, fresh fruit, mountain tea, hand-stretched pies. No plastic cheese, no soggy eggs.
The Spa: Fontus
Now this part surprised me. I knew there was a spa, but I wasn’t expecting something that felt so private and designed for real rest. There’s an indoor lap pool that feels like a modern thermal bath, a hammam room that’s actually hot (not lukewarm like most hotel versions), and a proper sauna. I booked the Grand Forest Signature Journey - a 90-minute ritual with oils, massage, and some deep breathing I didn’t even know I needed. I came out of it like I’d been deflated and reinflated better. I used the heated pool and jacuzzi again the next day in the early afternoon when no one else was around. Floating on my back under soft lighting in silence and I wish I could bottle that moment and open it during stressful weeks.
A Trip to Meteora
If you come this far north, don’t miss Meteora. It’s about an hour’s drive and you’ll need a full day or two to really do it justice. I spent two days and still felt like I could have stayed longer. It’s hard to explain Meteora. You’re driving through normal villages, then out of nowhere, boom - these towering rock formations shoot up from the earth, and perched on top are ancient monasteries that feel like they shouldn't be real. It looks surreal. Monks used to scale these cliffs with rope ladders. Now, you climb a lot of stair, hundreds in some cases but the views from the top are absolutely wild.
Varlaam was my favorite monastery. The gardens were peaceful, the museum inside was surprisingly well-curated, and the energy there felt still and grounded. Great Meteoron is bigger, older, and definitely more popular but also very impressive. If you’re short on time, at least stay for sunset. There’s a viewpoint just outside the monastery trails where people gather in silence as the sun sinks behind the rocks. It felt like a sacred moment, even though no one said a word. Heads up men should wear trousers (though modest shorts seemed okay), and women need to cover shoulders and wear a long skirt. They provide wrap skirts at the entrance if needed.
Back in Metsovo: Dinner at To Koutouki tou Nikola
Dinner in Metsovo: A Quiet Find at To Koutouki tou Nikola
My last night in Metsovo felt like it needed something simple. No fancy reservations, no overthinking. Just a good meal somewhere local. So I wandered into town as the sky was starting to turn that soft dusky blue and ended up at a place called To Koutouki tou Nikola. No neon signs, no shouting for attention. Just a warm glow from the inside and a chalkboard leaning against the wall listing a handful of dishes.
It’s not the kind of spot trying to impress anyone and maybe that’s exactly why it does. No laminated menus with pictures, no ‘Greek platter for 2’ specials. Just a few honest dishes, some house wine that tasted like a cousin made it in the hills nearby, and a staff that treats you like they’ve seen you around before, even if it’s your first time.
I went for the tomahawk steak, which sounds dramatic, I know - but it was perfect. Charred just right, juicy, and served without any fuss. The space itself is a mix of stone, wood, and a quiet kind of elegance. You could tell someone had thought it through but didn’t overdo it. It’s the kind of setting that lets the food do the talking. Chef Teo Kolaxisdis is behind the menu, and you can feel the love he puts into each dish. People around me were raving about the soutzoukakia - those spiced meatballs in rich tomato sauce and the beef tongue, which, honestly, I wish I had room to try. If you’re into burgers, apparently their take on it is also worth a detour. What really stayed with me was how unpretentious it all felt. There was no pressure to order fast, no upselling, no need to pretend you were there for a “culinary experience.” Just really good food, brought out by kind people who let you enjoy it at your own pace. If you ever find yourself in Metsovo, hungry after a long walk or just wanting something real, I’d say head here. No reservations needed, just bring an appetite and maybe skip lunch that day.
