Mountain Air, Old Town Nights: A No-Rush Guide to Zakopane and Kraków
I didn’t plan every detail of this trip. Just booked two hotels I’d been eyeing for a while, packed light, and decided to see where each day took me. First stop: Zakopane, tucked in the mountains. Then a few days later, I made my way to Kraków. Both cities were completely different, but each had something I needed quiet in one, culture in the other.
Zakopane: Chill Vibes, Mountain Air, and a Good Night's Sleep
Where I stayed: Aries Hotel & Spa
I wanted to stay somewhere central in Zakopane but still quiet enough to sleep with the window open. Aries nailed it. It’s just a short walk from the crowded main strip, but somehow it still feels tucked away. Even in peak season, it was peaceful. The building itself stands out stone and wood, big roof, a bit of a grand alpine look. Inside, it’s all warm tones, leather, wood, and details that make you feel like you're in a high-end ski lodge, not a random hotel. They’ve updated everything, but without losing the character. It actually feels like someone cared about the design. I had a Premiere Double. The room was a bit quirky mosaic wallpaper, carpeted floor not what I usually go for, but surprisingly cozy. The bed was really comfortable and the little touches were solid: robes, slippers, good toiletries, and daily bottled water. Check-in was smooth, even though I arrived early. They offered me another room that was ready, but I decided to wait for mine. Used the time to book a rafting trip at the travel desk in the lobby, which turned out to be a win. Loved the Spa. The warm outdoor jacuzzi and indoor heated up pool and spa was the highlight of the day after finishing some of the beautiful tracks in Zakapone. The breakfast though? No complaints. Big spread, American-style buffet with enough options to skip lunch if you wanted to. Definitely made mornings easier. They also have a small sculpture garden out back. A nice surprise. I didn’t plan to spend time there, but ended up walking through after breakfast. The pieces by Monika Osiecka are actually for sale, if you’re into that.
Where I ate: Karczma Zapiecek
I’d been wandering around Zakopane for a few days, soaking in the mountain air, the chaos of Krupówki Street, and that mix of tourist buzz and wooden-chalet calm that only this town can pull off. On one evening, as the air got cooler and the street lights flickered on, I ended up at Karczma Zapiecek - a place that looked a little too charming to walk past. From the outside, it had this warm, amber glow that just pulls you in. Inside? Wood everywhere. Walls, ceilings, furniture, all carved and rustic but not in a kitschy way, more like an old mountain cabin where someone actually put thought into the atmosphere. It didn’t scream for attention, just quietly invited you to sit down, exhale, and maybe stay a while.
I went solo, as always, and they gave me a seat not too far from a small live band that started playing some regional tunes - not loud, just enough to set a kind of cozy rhythm to the evening. Honestly, it felt more like being in someone’s extended living room than a tourist-filled restaurant. Now let’s talk food. You ever order something without knowing exactly what you’re getting, but it turns out to be one of the best decisions of the trip? That was me with the potato pancakes with mushroom sauce. I don’t even know how to describe the sauce, earthy, creamy, almost like a forest after rain. The mushrooms were the real deal too, not those rubbery ones you get from a can. These had bite. I took my time with every forkful.
I also tried the borscht - deep red, rich, and not shy with the flavor. If you’ve ever had a thin, watery version elsewhere, this wasn’t it. This one meant business. For the main, I went for the rolled pork loin. It came out looking like it could feed two people, and the sour cream sauce? Unreal. That kind of sauce where you’d shamelessly wipe the plate clean with bread if you weren’t trying to keep it classy. I wasn't trying that hard. What surprised me most was how reasonably priced it all was, especially for being smack in the middle of Zakopane’s busiest street. You’d expect it to be tourist-trap pricing, but no solid portions, good ingredients, and I didn’t feel like I’d been upsold on anything.
The staff were super relaxed, which matched the whole vibe. They weren’t rushing around or trying to flip tables fast. You could tell people come here to linger. It’s the kind of place where you lose track of time in the best way. So if you ever find yourself in Zakopane, overwhelmed by the cold or the crowds or just in need of a good, grounding meal, Karczma Zapiecek is worth ducking into. Come hungry, stay slow, and maybe let that band play you into the night a little longer than you planned.
What I did: Hiked to Morskie Oko
If you're heading to Zakopane, you're definitely going to hear about Morskie Oko. It's basically the hike everyone talks about and for good reason. But fair warning: if you're not a fan of crowds, you're going to want to get up early. Like, really early. I went at what I thought was a decent hour, and the trail already felt like a moving escalator of tourists. Still, even with all the people, once you catch that first view of the lake, it kind of shuts everything else out.
No photo you’ve seen online really does it justice. When you get there, the lake just sits there, completely still, surrounded by these jagged peaks that make you feel tiny in the best way. It’s peaceful in a way that’s hard to explain. That fresh mountain air doesn’t hurt either, it hits different up there. The hike itself is pretty gentle. Nothing extreme, just long. Takes about two hours, but the views along the way make it go by quickly. I stopped a few times just to take it in and people-watch a bit. You’ll see everything from serious hikers to people who look like they thought they were just popping out for coffee. There’s a café near the top too, so you’re not exactly roughing it.
You’re not allowed to swim or go off trail, which keeps it clean and protected. No boats either. So the water stays this unreal shade of clear. It was warm the day I went, and I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t tempted to jump in, but rules are rules. Honestly, if you're even slightly into nature, this is a no-brainer. It’s one of those places you think about long after you’ve left. Just… go early. Trust me.
Kraków: Old Streets, Good Food, and Unexpected Quiet
Where I stayed: Hotel Pod Różą
I stayed at this place called Pod Różą while I was in Kraków. Honestly, I didn’t know much about it before I booked, it just looked cool and was in the centre, so I went for it. Turned out to be one of those spots where you check in and immediately feel like you got it right.
It’s on Floriańska Street, which is proper Old Town: cobblestones, tourists, the usual buzz but the second I stepped inside, it all kind of faded. The hotel’s got this quiet energy. Not cold or posh, just calm. You walk in, and it smells nice, the lights are soft, no loud music playing. Just… chill. The building’s old. Like, really old. Apparently, it used to be a palace and before that, something to do with monks? I didn’t go full history nerd, but you can tell it’s been around. There’s original stone, arches, high ceilings. They’ve kept all the character, but nothing feels dated or dusty.
My room was facing the courtyard, which meant no noise at all. I slept like a log. You get proper wooden floors, a huge bed, those kind of blackout curtains that actually work, and a big bathroom with one of those rainfall showers that makes you stay in way too long. And yeah, I used the bathrobe. Obviously.
Breakfast in the morning was a whole event. Not just the usual boring hotel stuff. Fresh bread, good cheese, loads of sides, eggs made to order, even this tapenade thing that slapped way harder than I expected at 8 AM. I ended up sitting there longer than planned. Zero regrets. I had dinner there one night too. The restaurant is in a courtyard under this big glass roof, and the vibe is lowkey fancy but not awkward. I got some fish with dill sauce, which doesn’t sound exciting but was genuinely excellent. Everything just tasted right. You know when the bread is warm, the wine’s cold, and no one’s rushing you? That.
Didn’t do the spa properly, but I walked past and it looked amazing. Stone walls, candles, quiet music. Very zen. Kind of wish I’d booked something, but maybe next time.So yeah - if you're heading to Kraków and want to stay somewhere central but not noisy, something with a bit of soul, Pod Różą is a solid shout.
What I did: MOCAK Museum of Contemporary Art
So here’s how it went: I had some time to kill before heading over to Schindler’s Factory and thought I’d check out MOCAK, Kraków’s Museum of Contemporary Art. I wasn’t planning to stay long, just a quick look, stretch the legs a bit. Ended up spending way more time than I expected. The building itself is tucked behind some quiet streets in the Zabłocie area, near the river. It’s not flashy, but once you're inside, it opens up into this big, clean, modern space. Bright light, high ceilings, plenty of room to breathe - which, honestly, makes a big difference in a museum. You don’t feel crowded, rushed, or like you’re in some maze of “Do Not Touch” signs. You just kind of wander, at your own pace.
The exhibitions were… unexpected, in a good way. Not just the usual “modern art makes no sense” type of stuff. A lot of it really hits you - pieces that deal with politics, identity, conflict, memory. Heavy themes, but shown in a way that makes you want to slow down and look again. I remember one video piece that completely sucked me in, and I don’t even like video art most of the time. One heads-up: there’s a glass floor in one section. If you're not great with heights, maybe skip that bit. I walked over it without thinking and then realised my knees weren’t totally onboard. But it’s a small part, and there’s plenty more to see.
The staff were super friendly, spoke great English, and didn’t hover. They just let you be, which I really appreciated. There’s a small café near the entrance if you want to grab a coffee after. I had a quick espresso before heading back out. There’s also a little bookshop, mostly art books and local publications - definitely more of a browse than a full-blown gift shop, which was fine by me. Would I go again? Yeah, absolutely. If you like art that actually makes you feel something or think a bit deeper, it’s worth your time. Even if you're not a hardcore museum person, MOCAK is easy to enjoy. You don’t need to know art theory or pretend to understand every piece. You just show up, walk around, and see what sticks.
And if you’re already heading to Schindler’s Museum, it’s right next door, so you might as well. Just don’t make the mistake I did and assume it’ll be a quick visit. Give yourself time. You might stay longer than you think.
