Mountain Air, Old Town Nights: A No-Rush Guide to Zakopane and Kraków

I didn’t plan every detail of this trip. Just booked two hotels I’d been eyeing for a while, packed light, and decided to see where each day took me. First stop: Zakopane, tucked in the mountains. Then a few days later, I made my way to Kraków. Both cities were completely different, but each had something I needed quiet in one, culture in the other.

Zakopane: Chill Vibes, Mountain Air, and a Good Night's Sleep

Where I stayed: Aries Hotel & Spa

I wanted to stay somewhere central in Zakopane but still quiet enough to sleep with the window open. Aries nailed it. It’s just a short walk from the crowded main strip, but somehow it still feels tucked away. Even in peak season, it was peaceful. The building itself stands out stone and wood, big roof, a bit of a grand alpine look. Inside, it’s all warm tones, leather, wood, and details that make you feel like you're in a high-end ski lodge, not a random hotel. They’ve updated everything, but without losing the character. It actually feels like someone cared about the design. I had a Premiere Double. The room was a bit quirky mosaic wallpaper, carpeted floor not what I usually go for, but surprisingly cozy. The bed was really comfortable and the little touches were solid: robes, slippers, good toiletries, and daily bottled water. Check-in was smooth, even though I arrived early. They offered me another room that was ready, but I decided to wait for mine. Used the time to book a rafting trip at the travel desk in the lobby, which turned out to be a win. Loved the Spa. The warm outdoor jacuzzi and indoor heated up pool and spa was the highlight of the day after finishing some of the beautiful tracks in Zakapone. The breakfast though? No complaints. Big spread, American-style buffet with enough options to skip lunch if you wanted to. Definitely made mornings easier. They also have a small sculpture garden out back. A nice surprise. I didn’t plan to spend time there, but ended up walking through after breakfast. The pieces by Monika Osiecka are actually for sale, if you’re into that.

Where I ate: Karczma Zapiecek

This spot hit the mark. Cozy, wood interiors, classic highlander feel without being over the top. I had grilled oscypek with cranberry jam and a lamb stew. Both exactly what I needed after walking around all day. Not expensive either.

What I did: Hiked to Morskie Oko

Morskie Oko is one of those places people tell you to visit, and they’re right. It’s a few hours round-trip, but the view at the top makes it worth it. Quiet lake, mountain backdrop, fresh air. I didn’t really do much up there, just sat on a rock and took it in. Sometimes that’s all you need.

Kraków: Old Streets, Good Food, and Unexpected Quiet

Where I stayed: Hotel Pod Różą

This hotel’s in the middle of Old Town, but once you step inside, it feels like a calm pocket away from the crowds. The building’s got some serious history - it used to be a palace, and they’ve kept a lot of the original charm. It was renovated not long ago, so you get the mix of heritage and comfort without sacrificing anything. The reception area is softly lit and clean, with a relaxed feel. The bar and restaurant are in a courtyard under a glass roof, and the whole space is done in matching tones and textures. You can tell someone really thought through the design. My room faced the courtyard and was super quiet. High ceilings, quality finishes, everything you’d expect from a five-star hotel without being flashy. Just a really comfortable place to come back to at the end of the day.

Where I ate: Szara Gęś

I wanted something a little special without making it a whole production. This place had a great vibe. I ordered the duck with beetroot and cabbage, and it was honestly one of the best meals I had in Poland. Service was relaxed, not stiff. Wine was good. I took my time with dinner.

What I did: MOCAK Museum of Contemporary Art

I’d seen enough churches and cathedrals by this point, so I went to MOCAK. It’s outside the main tourist zone, and it was exactly what I needed space, quiet, and art that actually made me stop and think. Not everything in Kraków has to be medieval towers and cobblestones.