How I Spent a Week in Luces, Asturias: The Quiet Coastal Escape I'd Recommend to Anyone
Stayed in Luces, Asturias, Spain | July 7–14
After several busy weeks travelling through northern Spain, Luces was exactly the change of pace I didn't know I needed.
Unlike larger destinations where every day revolves around ticking attractions off a list, Luces encourages you to slow down. This tiny village in Asturias is surrounded by rolling green countryside, dramatic cliffs and fishing villages that feel wonderfully untouched by mass tourism. It isn't somewhere you visit for nightlife or shopping. You come here for peaceful mornings, scenic drives, excellent food and some of the most beautiful coastal scenery in northern Spain.
I spent a full week using Luces as my base while exploring eastern Asturias, and I couldn't have chosen a better location. If you're wondering where I stayed, you can read my full hotel review here:
https://www.golfingwithchris.com/blog/luxury-stays-in-northern-spain-three-hotels-id-recommend
Although Luces itself is small, its location makes it perfect for discovering charming villages, spectacular viewpoints and some incredible local restaurants. Here are the places I'd recommend if you're planning your own visit.
A Little History of Luces
Luces is a small parish within the municipality of Colunga in Asturias, a region famous for its rugged coastline, lush green mountains and strong Celtic heritage.
For centuries, this area has been shaped by farming, fishing and the Cantabrian Sea. While Luces has remained a quiet rural community, its location just a few minutes from the historic fishing village of Lastres has made it an ideal base for travellers wanting to experience authentic Asturias without staying in a busy tourist town.
One of the things I appreciated most was how traditional everything felt. Stone farmhouses, grazing cattle, winding country roads and panoramic sea views reminded me that northern Spain has a very different character from destinations further south. It feels greener, slower and wonderfully unspoilt.
During my stay, I found myself enjoying the drives just as much as the destinations. Every road seemed to reveal another incredible viewpoint or another small village that looked worth exploring.
1. Explore Lastres, One of Asturias' Most Beautiful Fishing Villages
Image courtesy of Turismo de Asturias.
Around 5 minutes by car from Luces
If you're staying in Luces, visiting Lastres is non-negotiable.
Perched dramatically above the Bay of Biscay, this picturesque fishing village is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful towns in Asturias, and after spending time here, it's easy to understand why.
The narrow streets climb steeply through rows of traditional houses, eventually leading to breathtaking viewpoints overlooking the harbour and coastline. Rather than rushing through with a checklist, I spent a couple of hours simply wandering the streets, stopping whenever another beautiful view appeared around the corner.
The harbour remains very much a working fishing port, giving the town an authentic atmosphere that many seaside destinations have lost over the years.
There are also plenty of cafés, seafood restaurants and small shops to enjoy, making it somewhere that's easy to spend half a day.
Allow: 2–3 hours.
Best for: Photography, coastal views and experiencing traditional Asturias.
2. Visit Mirador de San Roque
Image courtesy of Turismo de Asturias.
Around 8 minutes by car from Luces
Some viewpoints require a long hike.
Thankfully, this isn't one of them.
Mirador de San Roque sits high above Lastres and offers one of the most spectacular panoramic views anywhere along the Asturian coastline.
From here you can see the colourful rooftops of Lastres spilling down the hillside, the fishing harbour below and the endless Cantabrian Sea stretching towards the horizon.
I visited more than once during my stay because the scenery changes throughout the day. Early mornings felt peaceful with soft light across the bay, while late afternoons created beautiful golden colours over the coastline.
It's also home to the famous dinosaur sculpture overlooking the village, a reminder that Asturias is known internationally for its rich dinosaur fossil discoveries.
If you're travelling by car, it's an easy stop that shouldn't be missed.
Allow: 30–45 minutes.
Best for: Scenic views and photography.
Best Breakfast: Magovi Café
Image courtesy of Magovi Café.
Calle Dr. Francisco Grande Covián, 6, Colunga | Around 10 minutes by car from Luces
One of my favourite places to start the day while staying in Luces was Magovi Café in nearby Colunga.
Popular with both locals and visitors, the café has a welcoming atmosphere that's perfect for a relaxed breakfast before setting off to explore Asturias. Inside, you'll find a bright, comfortable space where the aroma of freshly brewed coffee and baked pastries quickly makes you want to stay a little longer.
I ordered toasted bread with tomato and olive oil alongside a freshly brewed coffee, while on another visit I treated myself to one of their homemade pastries with a cappuccino. Everything was fresh, generously portioned and reasonably priced, making it an easy place to return to more than once during my stay.
The friendly service and laid-back atmosphere only added to the experience. Rather than feeling like a tourist stop, Magovi Café felt like the kind of neighbourhood café where locals gather every morning, which is exactly the sort of place I enjoy discovering while travelling.
Best for: Fresh coffee, homemade pastries and a relaxed local breakfast before a day exploring Asturias.
Best Breakfast: Palacio de Luces
Image courtesy of Palacio de Luces.
Luces
Not every hotel breakfast is memorable.
This one certainly was.
Breakfast quickly became one of my favourite parts of each morning at Palacio de Luces. Served overlooking the gardens and surrounding countryside, it was the perfect start before heading out to explore Asturias.
The buffet featured freshly baked pastries, fruit, local cheeses, cured meats, eggs cooked to order and excellent coffee.
Rather than rushing through breakfast, I found myself slowing down and enjoying the peaceful surroundings before getting in the car for another day of exploring.
If breakfast is included with your stay, I wouldn't skip it.
Best for: A leisurely start to the day.
Best Lunch: La Botica
Image courtesy of La Botica.
Lastres | Around 6 minutes by car from Luces
After spending the morning exploring Lastres, La Botica became the perfect place to stop for lunch.
Located in the heart of the village, the restaurant focuses on traditional Asturian cuisine prepared using fresh local ingredients.
I ordered fresh grilled fish with seasonal vegetables, followed by a homemade dessert and a juice.
The atmosphere felt relaxed, the service was welcoming and the quality of the food reminded me why Asturias has developed such an excellent culinary reputation.
It's the sort of restaurant where lunch naturally turns into a long, enjoyable break before continuing your day.
Dinner: Restaurante Arbidel
Image courtesy of Restaurante Arbidel.
Ribadesella | Around 20 minutes by car from Luces
If you're looking for a special dinner while staying in Luces, I'd recommend making the short drive to Restaurante Arbidel.
Awarded a Michelin star, the restaurant showcases modern Asturian cuisine while allowing local ingredients to remain the focus.
Every course was beautifully presented without ever feeling overly complicated, and the attentive service helped create one of the most memorable dinners of my stay.
It's definitely worth booking ahead.
Best for: Fine dining and special occasions.
Dinner: Eutimio
Image courtesy of Eutimio.
Lastres | Around 5 minutes by car from Luces
For something a little more relaxed, Eutimio was another standout.
Overlooking the harbour in Lastres, it's one of those restaurants where the setting is almost as memorable as the food.
Fresh seafood naturally dominates the menu, and I couldn't resist ordering locally caught fish paired with seasonal vegetables.
Watching the evening light fade over the harbour while enjoying dinner made for the perfect end to another day exploring Asturias.
It's easy to see why both locals and visitors continue recommending this restaurant.
Best for: Fresh seafood with beautiful harbour views.
Why Luces Was One of My Favourite Stops in Asturias
One of the things I appreciated most about staying in Luces was that it encouraged me to slow down.
There weren't long queues, crowded attractions or busy shopping streets demanding my attention. Instead, each day revolved around scenic drives, quiet coastal villages, excellent meals and taking the time to appreciate one of Spain's most beautiful regions.
Using Luces as my base also made exploring eastern Asturias incredibly easy. Whether I was wandering through Lastres, admiring the views from Mirador de San Roque or enjoying another memorable meal overlooking the sea, everything was within a short drive.
If you're planning a road trip through northern Spain and want somewhere peaceful that still gives you access to some of Asturias' best attractions, Luces deserves a place on your itinerary.
For me, it became one of the most relaxing and rewarding stops of my entire journey.
