Cannes Off the Red Carpet

From Quiet Antibes to Flashy Cannes

After an amazing week wandering around Antibes (which I didn’t really want to leave, to be honest), I hopped over to Cannes for the next four days. It felt like the natural thing to do - you spend enough time on the Riviera and suddenly every town feels like it’s whispering “just one more stop.”

Cannes, of course, has that big, shiny reputation. Everyone knows it for the film festival, the red carpet, the celebrities in oversized sunglasses pretending not to notice the photographers. That’s the image most of us grow up with. But if you peel back the glamour for a second, this place actually started off as a sleepy little fishing village. Fishermen hauling in their catch where mega-yachts are parked today.

Things changed in the 1800s when European aristocrats “discovered” it, which I guess is a fancy way of saying they wanted somewhere warmer than London or Vienna in the winter. And then, little by little, Cannes turned into this symbol of luxury and leisure.

Oh, and here’s a random fact I loved: the Cannes Film Festival was actually supposed to launch in 1939, but World War II had other plans. They only managed to kick things off in 1946. Can you imagine that the very first festival was meant to happen just as the world was about to collapse into chaos. Timing really is everything.

Traverse des Artistes: A Cozy Cannes Base

I got into Cannes at the end of August and went straight to the place I’d be calling home for the next four nights - a boutique hotel called Traverse des Artistes. It’s right in Le Suquet, the old town, which turned out to be the best choice. The streets there are narrow and cobbled, cafés spill out onto the pavement, and it’s got this laid-back village feel that almost makes you forget you’re in the same city where the red carpet gets rolled out for Hollywood every year.

The hotel itself is pretty new, but it fits the area. The building has that light Mediterranean style - simple, clean, nothing overdone. I liked that it didn’t try too hard to be “luxury.” Cannes already has enough palaces on La Croisette. This place felt personal, quiet, like a spot you could actually switch off in.

My room was a Deluxe with a Terrace. It had plenty of space, around 27 square meters, with soft pastel touches that made it easy to settle in. The best surprise? A fully equipped kitchen. I didn’t think I’d care, but being able to make my own coffee in the morning instead of hunting down a café was a win. The terrace became my evening ritual. It is just nice to have a spot to step outside, relax, and enjoy the evening air after a day of exploring.

The little details stood out. The shutters shut out every bit of light in the mornings, so I could actually sleep in, which is rare with the Riviera sun barging into your room at 7 a.m. The bathroom was spotless, stocked with what you need, nothing crazy but nothing missing either.

There’s no pool, no spa, no lounge, but when the beach and a hundred restaurants are within five minutes, you don’t really notice. Breakfast was straightforward and fresh, just enough to set me up for the day.

What made the stay memorable, though, was the staff. They had this easy, genuine energy - no fake smiles, just people who seemed to actually enjoy what they were doing.

By the time I checked out, Traverse des Artistes felt less like a hotel and more like a proper base camp. Not flashy, not showy, just the right mix of charm and comfort. And honestly, I’d take that over a five-star palace any day.

Exploring Le Suquet

One of my favorite things in Cannes was just wandering around Le Suquet, the old town. The streets are narrow, cobbled, and somehow manage to feel both timeless and full of life. There’s something about walking here that makes you forget the yachts and red carpets. It’s like stepping into a quieter, more authentic side of the city.

I spent hours just wandering, popping into little cafés that spill onto the streets, watching locals go about their day, and grabbing a coffee when I needed a break. Everything feels small, intimate, and real - none of the polished tourist traps you see closer to the beach.

If you climb up to the Église Notre-Dame d’Espérance, the views are absolutely worth it. The whole bay opens up beneath you, the rooftops of the old town cascading down toward the water, and the blue of the sea stretching out forever. It’s the kind of view that makes you stop for a minute and just take it all in.

While exploring, keep an eye out for little flea markets tucked into side streets. They’re not huge, but wandering through them is a lot of fun - old postcards, vintage trinkets, and the kind of random finds that make you smile. Even if you don’t buy anything, it’s the kind of place where the surprises are worth the walk.

Fun fact: Le Suquet is actually the oldest part of Cannes, dating back to the 10th century, and its name comes from the Occitan word for “little hill.” So when you’re climbing those streets up to the church, you’re literally walking through history.

Le Suquet has that mix of history, charm, and everyday life that makes it one of the highlights of Cannes for me. You can easily spend an afternoon getting lost here, no plan, no rush, just soaking in the atmosphere. It’s a little reminder that even in a city famous for glitz and glamour, there’s a quieter, more human side waiting to be discovered.

Brunch at Saddle

While wandering the streets of Cannes, I overheard a couple talking about a place called Saddle, so I decided to check it out. It’s a tiny coffee spot with outdoor tables, serving matcha, coffee, and brunch. It’s an Emiratee-run café, cozy, laid-back, and just the right vibe for people-watching.

I wasn’t starving, so I went for a simple brioche with egg and a coffee. Classic, easy, and exactly what I needed. Prices were pretty average for Cannes. The place had that unmistakable “TikTok vibe” - full of young people snapping photos of their drinks, posing for pictures, and enjoying the sun. I half expected someone to start a choreographed dance routine with their latte. That’s when I realized I’d stepped into the real energy of Cannes, where casual charm meets slightly ridiculous glamour.

The staff were friendly and welcoming, making the tiny space feel even more inviting. I did have to wait a few minutes for an outside table, but once I settled in, it was the perfect little pause in the middle of the afternoon. By the time I finished my coffee, I felt recharged and ready to continue exploring the city, and maybe sneak a few questionable selfies myself.

Dinner at Astoux et Brun

For dinner, I decided to hit up Astoux et Brun, a seafood institution in Cannes that’s been around for decades. It’s right by the waterfront, so the location alone makes it worth the trip. If you’re into sunsets, fresh seafood, and pretending you’re a fancy film festival guest (even if you’re in sneakers), this is your place.

The restaurant is always packed, so make a reservation unless you enjoy pacing outside like a desperate extra in a French rom-com. They have tables inside, but honestly, no one touches them if they can snag a spot outside. I got lucky and grabbed a table with a view, and instantly understood why everyone fights for it - watching the sun dip into the bay while eating oysters feels way too good to pass up.

The staff were brilliant - super friendly and accommodating, even though my French is basically limited to “merci” and “oui.” They made the whole experience easy, which is a lifesaver when you’re a solo traveler.

For dinner, I went with oysters to start and scallop risotto for the main. Both were fantastic - fresh, perfectly cooked, and full of flavor. By the time I finished, I completely got why this place is always buzzing. No pretension, just really good seafood in a stunning spot, served by people who actually care that you enjoy your meal.

Coffee Break at Café Crème

While wandering around Cannes, I dropped into Café Crème, and it turned out to be exactly the kind of spot I needed. The place is surprisingly spacious - none of those cramped cafés where you’re practically sitting on your neighbor’s lap. Plenty of room to stretch out, which made it perfect for setting up my laptop and getting a little work done while enjoying the city vibe.

I went for a cappuccino, strong and perfectly made, exactly what you want when you’re trying to wake up your brain after walking around all morning. They also have a menu if you want to grab some food. They do pastries, sandwiches, small plates, but I just kept it simple and focused on the coffee (and the Wi-Fi).

The interior is super stylish - bold, vibrant furniture, artsy touches everywhere, but still cozy.

Service was excellent, too. The staff were friendly, efficient, and didn’t hover while I worked, which is a big plus. And the location couldn’t be better - central enough to feel connected to the buzz of Cannes, yet calm enough to actually get something done.

By the time I packed up my laptop, I had a solid caffeine boost and a little extra energy for more exploring. Good coffee, solid work vibes, and a comfortable place to just be in the city.

Handy Tips for Touring Cannes

If you want to make the most of Cannes, a little planning goes a long way. Book ahead for anything a bit fancy - private beach clubs, upscale dinners, or popular beachfront bars,  because they fill up fast. If you’re into local life, the Forville Market is a must-visit in the mornings (it runs every day except Monday, roughly 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.). Grab some fresh bread, cheese, or pastries and make your own impromptu picnic.

Thinking of escaping the city for a bit? Take a morning ferry to the nearby islands, pack a swimsuit and some snacks, and enjoy a quieter, more natural side of the Riviera. Keep in mind Cannes gets busy during festival season - the Film Festival in May and Lions in June are peak times, so book hotels early if your trip coincides.

Cannes itself is compact, so walking is the best way to explore the city and stumble on hidden corners. For longer trips, like Plage du Midi or catching a ferry, buses and taxis are handy. A few other things I’d add: wear comfy shoes for the cobbled streets, keep sunscreen and water handy, and don’t be afraid to wander off the main strip as some of the best cafés and little boutiques are tucked away in quiet streets.

With just a bit of planning, you’ll have a smooth, relaxed, and very “Cannes” experience without missing the highlights. 

My time here was unforgettable, and I’ll definitely be back.